Printing with metallic or glitter inks adds that "wow" factor to any garment, sign, or promotional product. The sparkle catches the eye, the shimmer catches the light, and the end result feels premium. But there's a downside: these specialty inks are notorious for thickening, particle‑settling, and eventually clogging the fine openings of a screen.
Below is a step‑by‑step guide to help you get that dazzling finish without sacrificing screen life or print quality.
Choose the Right Ink Formulation
| Ink Type | Typical Viscosity (cPs) | Particle Size | Ideal Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metallic Sheen | 8,000--12,000 | 10--30 µm (fine foil) | Subtle shimmer on dark fabrics |
| Glitter | 10,000--16,000 | 30--150 µm (coated glitter) | High‑impact sparkle, usually on light bases |
| Hybrid (Metal‑Glitter) | 12,000--18,000 | Mixed | Bold, reflective designs |
Tip: Look for inks labeled "low‑clog" or "fluid‑grade" . These have a higher binder-to‑solids ratio, making them flow more freely through the mesh.
Prepare Your Screens Properly
a. Pick the Right Mesh Count
| Design Complexity | Recommended Mesh |
|---|---|
| Fine text / detailed graphics | 230--260 T |
| Large solid areas | 110--156 T |
| Heavy glitter (≥120 µm) | 90--110 T (or even 70 T for extreme bulk) |
A coarser mesh gives the glitter particles room to pass, while still holding enough ink for solid coverage.
b. Use a Proper Emulsion
- High‑solids emulsion (e.g., 12 µm) can tolerate thicker inks better.
- Anti‑camming coating (a thin rubberized layer) reduces friction and helps particles slide through.
c. Apply a "Release" Layer (Optional)
A thin coat of screen wash or non‑stick additive on the mesh surface can prevent glitter from embedding into the fibers. Let it dry completely before exposing the screen.
Optimize Ink Consistency
a. Filtration
Before each run, push the ink through a 70--100 µm stainless‑steel filter . This catches agglomerates that would otherwise block the mesh.
b. Dilution (When Needed)
- Use the ink manufacturer's recommended reducer (often a low‑odor solvent).
- Add no more than 10--12 % reducer by volume. Too much will thin the metallic pigments, reducing reflection.
c. Mixing Technique
- Stir gently with a silicone‑spoon or low‑speed drill mixer for 2--3 minutes.
- Degas the ink using a vacuum chamber or a short burst of compressed air.
- Rest the ink for 5 minutes before loading it onto the screen; this lets trapped air escape.
Adjust Your Printing Parameters
| Parameter | Recommended Setting | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Squeegee hardness | Medium‑soft (70 A) for glitter, Medium (80 A) for metallic | Softer blades push particles without digging them into the mesh. |
| Squeegee angle | 45°--55° | A flatter angle reduces shear forces that can jam the mesh. |
| Off‑contact | 1.5--2 mm (glitter), 1--1.5 mm (metallic) | Slightly higher off‑contact gives the ink a smoother "fill‑in." |
| Print speed | Moderate (2--3 seconds per pass) | Too fast → splatter; too slow → excessive shear. |
| Curing temperature | 320°F--340°F (160°C--170°C) for 45--60 seconds (depending on substrate) | Adequate cure locks the particles in place and prevents smearing. |
Clean Between Colors & Jobs
- Rinse with a dedicated metallic‑ink solvent -- regular water‑based cleaners can leave residue that gums up the mesh.
- Scrub gently with a soft brush; avoid metal bristles that can rip the mesh.
- Run a quick "flush" pass with fresh ink (no design) to push any remaining particles through.
- Air‑dry the screen fully before storing; moisture encourages particle clumping.
Maintenance Tips for Longevity
- Schedule a deep clean after every 10--15 glitter jobs. Soak the screen in a warm detergent solution, then rinse and re‑coat with emulsion if needed.
- Inspect mesh tension regularly; clogged screens sag and can cause uneven prints.
- Rotate meshes : If you have multiple screens of the same count, alternate them to give each a "rest" period.
- Store inks in a cool, dark place and shake them before each use to keep particles in suspension.
Troubleshooting Quick Guide
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Streaky or patchy glitter | Ink too thick or insufficient off‑contact | Dilute slightly (5 % max) and increase off‑contact by 0.2 mm |
| Mesh appears "fuzzy" after printing | Glitter particles stuck in fibers | Run a high‑pressure water rinse, then a gentle scrub with a nylon brush |
| Metallic ink fades after wash | Under‑cure or low binder ratio | Raise cure temperature by 10°F or increase cure time by 5 seconds |
| Clogging after a few passes | No filtration or inadequate debris removal | Filter ink before each batch, and add a short pause (30 s) between passes to let the screen "settle" |
Bonus: Eco‑Friendly Considerations
- Water‑based metallics are now widely available and produce less VOCs. They typically require a slightly higher cure temperature but work equally well with the steps above.
- Recyclable glitter (biodegradable polymer coated) can replace traditional PET‑based sparkle. The same mesh and cleaning regime applies.
Bottom Line
Metallic and glitter inks are a fantastic way to elevate a design, but they demand a disciplined workflow:
- Select the right ink and mesh.
- Filter, mix, and degas the ink.
- Fine‑tune squeegee angles, off‑contact, and cure settings.
- Commit to diligent cleaning and regular maintenance.
Follow this checklist, and you'll keep your screens flowing smoothly while delivering eye‑popping, long‑lasting sparkle every time. Happy printing!